Passions & Pastimes April Eileen Passions & Pastimes April Eileen

She Dines: Midtown, Corktown, and in My Lady’s Chamber

“Ladiez is pimps too…gon’ brush your shoulders off.” — Jay Z

Not my usual classic quote intro but necessary, as it was the first thing I saw when I entered the foyer of Lady of the House. I’m going to like this place, I thought for the second time. I first had the impression as my husband pulled into the parking lot and I realized we were across the street from Corktown’s FOLK Detroit (one of my favorite brunch spots) but now the feeling was palpable. Another two steps and I ran into the proprietor of Antietam as he was walking out. “Try the roasted carrots, he urged.” Yep, definitely going to like this place.

Ladiez is pimps too…gon’ brush your shoulders off.
— Jay Z

Not my usual classic quote intro but necessary, as it was the first thing I saw when I entered the foyer of Lady of the House. I’m going to like this place, I thought for the second time. I first had the impression as my husband pulled into the parking lot and I realized we were across the street from Corktown’s FOLK Detroit (one of my favorite brunch spots) but now the feeling was palpable. Another two steps and I ran into the proprietor of Antietam as he was walking out. “Try the roasted carrots, he urged.” Yep, definitely going to like this place. 

A few minutes later, my husband and I were sitting at the bar only to learn the kitchen was closed. Damn! Naturally, I made a mental note to come back the next day before ordering a glass of wine. All was not lost, however, as we were in the company of a perfectly awesome bartender. I determined not to rate the whole experience based on his friendliness, though, as I had learned my lesson from that kind of naivety in the past (see Apparatus Room post). Between jokes at the bar, I managed to take note of the ambiance at Lady of the House. Pineapples, which I learned are the international symbol of hospitality and welcome, are displayed prominently in various areas. The main dining room is intimate and includes a lovely fireplace. I should also mention that there is a picture of Ryan Gosling on an ottoman in the ladies’ bathroom, and not the romantic Ryan from The Notebook you might want to marry but the sexy Ryan from Crazy Stupid Love you might want to…well, nevermind. I’ve not met you Chef Kate but thank you, kindly.

Roasted carrots, napkin, and photo of Ryan Gosling by April Eileen

I did visit the next day. I was not jazzy, there was no babysitter, and it was not Saturday night. Instead, my mother and I were without a reservation and toting a three year old into a crowded eatery – every restaurant proprietor’s ideal situation, I’m sure. Christian, the general manager who I had been emailing about my book club, was super accommodating nonetheless. If you’re reading this, Christian, know that it takes a village to raise a future gastronome and the foodie force is strong with the little one. She prefers a well-seasoned lamb chop with herbed goat cheese and lightly sautéed kale to chicken nuggets any day. Certainly, she eats dirt and paper too from time to time but hey, it looks promising. Thanks so much for everything!

Anyway, mom, kid and I sat down and ordered a few small plates. While we waited for our food, we struck up a conversation with an “expat” couple sans their tiny tots, just in from their native Chicago. They were jazzy, they did have a babysitter, and based on every available indicator, it was still Saturday night to them. Always a good omen when former cool kids (i.e. cosmo kids before kids) from another awesome city decide to visit an establishment. Just as they were telling us what a must-try the salmon was, our roasted carrots, cucumber carpaccio, and potato donuts arrived. Verdict? Yums all around. The carrots were perfectly cooked and the hollandaise sauce was a lovely compliment, the cucumber with walnut romesco was fresh and flavorful, and what can I say about the potato donuts? Creatively conceived and beautifully executed, the donuts were perfection, and there was some kind of custard upon which they sat that could have been a dish unto itself. Delicious and a confirmation of the fact that I never had a potato I didn’t like (except in potato salad - it should be a capital crime to chill a potato and douse it with mayonnaise).

Potato donuts and fireplace by April Eileen

All in all, we had a wonderful experience. There are good things in store for Lady of the House. I’ll certainly be back and I hear that brunch is afoot too in a few months! Nothing I like better than a good excuse for day drinking. The only thing I might recommend is that they do a bit more with the curated cocktails but I suspect that’s in the works and as long as there is wine and a full bar, I’m happy. Loving this one, guys! Check it out and, as always, let me know what you think!

Love in all things,


April Eileen

 

 

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She Dines: The Devil Dons Michelin Stars

“Poverty was repugnant to her; degradation took away two-thirds of her greatness. Milady was only a queen while among queens. The pleasure of satisfied pride was necessary to her domination. To command inferior beings was rather a humiliation than a pleasure for her.”

— The Three Musketeers, Alexandre Dumas

Rarely do I write a critical post. It’s not that I’m so optimistic, but rather that I was gifted with the ability to exercise a certain degree of diplomacy in most circumstances…except this one.

Poverty was repugnant to her; degradation took away two-thirds of her greatness. Milady was only a queen while among queens. The pleasure of satisfied pride was necessary to her domination. To command inferior beings was rather a humiliation than a pleasure for her.
— Alexandre Dumas, The Three Musketeers

Rarely do I write a critical post. It’s not that I’m so optimistic, but rather that I was gifted with the ability to exercise a certain degree of diplomacy in most circumstances…except this one.

I’ve been to Apparatus Room – located inside the Detroit Foundation Hotel, the product of renovations to the Detroit Fire Department headquarters – several times now and feel I can make a fair assessment. Everything is always perfect – people say what they’re supposed to say, the food is exactly what you would expect from a Michelin 2-star chef, the ambiance is completely representative of a downtown city restaurant. But it’s the kind of perfection that suggests something sinister is going on behind the scenes…like Pleasant Ridge perfection or Stepford Wives perfection. It’s like reading Runway Magazine – the fictional publication that served as the contextual backdrop for the movie, The Devil Wears Prada – and then meeting its cut-throat, demanding editor-in-chief, Miranda Priestly. All examples of perfection followed by unadulterated evil (okay, perhaps I was a little hard on Pleasant Ridge).

Detroit Foundation Hotel entrance and dessert by April Eileen

Detroit Foundation Hotel entrance and dessert by April Eileen

What I found was precision (good) coupled with an air of superiority (not so good) and a seeming willingness to sacrifice whatever is necessary to achieve that air (even worse). And just as I’d rather not have avocado toasts, delicious as they might be, with the infamous Ms. Priestly, I’m also not really trying to have them at Apparatus Room either. I realize I may never dine respectably in the city of Detroit again by suggesting Apparatus Room is the Miranda Priestly – the unmitigated bitch – of Detroit restaurants but hey, it’s my truth. Despite excellent food, the unmistakable conceit in the admittedly beautiful atmosphere leaves a bad taste nonetheless.

I can usually tell how accommodating a restaurant will be when I try to make a reservation for a large party on an off night. Sometimes it’s simple and the restaurant has space or makes it happen in some other way. Sometimes it is difficult and they are persnickety about how the bill should be paid or mention the entire party must be there before anyone is seated or there is some inordinate fee associated with the room. I’m quite used to any of these rules and have even been in situations where they are compounded (anyone been to Wright & Company lately?) so no worries right? In this case, I never even got a call back.

Now let me back up. I had been to Apparatus Room once before the situation with the unanswered calls. I actually had a good experience, which is why I considered the restaurant for my meeting. In hindsight, it was entirely due to the service of a truly friendly bartender who, by the way, is now at The Whiskey Parlor (go figure). Anyway, I knew they had a private seating area because a member of the staff – longer hair, dark features, grey suit, aloofness seeping from his pores – showed it to me and we discussed it. Sadly, I didn’t write the gentlemen’s name down…total fail on my part because when I finally did get someone on the phone to continue the discussion, describing the gentlemen to which I had spoken – longer hair, dark features, grey suit, pore-seeping aloofness – of course none of it mattered. Not only did persnickety-ness abound, putting Apparatus Room squarely in the “exceedingly difficult” camp but apparently, no one with the description I provided worked there.

I pulled every trick in the book and even dropped a name (it’s literally the only one I have) to avoid some of the rigid rules and was able to make a reservation for the main restaurant area. When I walked in, I was greeted or rather assessed by the haughty hostess, and while I have no general issue with nonchalance, in this case, it was less about trying to create an atmosphere of exclusiveness, which is common among luxury brands, and more about ensuring realized what a privilege it was for me to be in their establishment.

Pastries and Detroit Foundation Hotel entrance by April Eileen

Pastries and Detroit Foundation Hotel entrance by April Eileen

Fortunately for me, I was in very good company for dinner so the rest of the dining experience was fine and, as I mentioned, the food is really spectacular. It is a real shame it’s overshadowed by a general disdain for all human life. After paying my bill, I took a few steps toward the door and – Gah! I spotted the man I was convinced was an apparition. There he was – longer hair, dark features, glaring aloofness and I swear to God, the very same grey suit! He was there in the flesh and my blood was boiling with rage.

Okay, I’m done. Check out Apparatus Room if you want to feel generally unwanted and inadequate in life (just tell people you went because it’s the only place that serves Sancerre by the glass…we won’t judge). But if you want great food, great atmosphere, great customer service AND that nice warm fuzzy feeling of belonging that makes for a favorite restaurant (wow…what a concept), take another route. Do yourself a favor and check out another of the many fantastic restaurants in Detroit (Selden Standard, Takoi, and Savannah Blue are just a few of my favorite).

What’s your take on ostentatious eateries? Tolerable or maddening?

UPDATE: I decided to give Apparatus Room another shot when I held my monthly mastermind there a few weeks ago. I know, I know! I was hesitant, believe me, but most of my fellow content creators had never been and I felt they at least deserved a chance to form their own opinions. I was the first to arrive and the restaurant was nearly empty so I asked the host if the head chef, Thomas Lents, was around. He was. I was simply going to introduce myself and share that I had met his lovely wife and son during a parent/child class we all had together during the fall. Unworthy as I am, I did expect to have an opportunity to compliment him on his truly delightful family (and the spectacular blueberry lemon pancakes). Nothing major, just the exchange of a few pleasantries. Well, brunch - scrumptious as it was - came and went and I found myself indignantly sipping grapefruit mimosas because I wasn’t given the chance to praise the him. Well, Apparatus Room had done it again and I was put squarely in my place - a mere paying customer. On a MUCH brighter note, we had a delightful server who, like the bartender mentioned above, might make you forget you are in the 7th level of hell but only briefly. There are still red flags - references to the head chef always being “pissed;” the mysterious plate of free pancakes that showed up at our table after my friends and I had openly talked bad about the restaurant in the ladies room; french fries - far too plebeian I suppose - only being served on the less bourgeois side of the restaurant. I suspect nothing has really changed and Apparatus Room is still a sumptuous tragedy but who am I? Just a poor foot soldier, too lowly even to be noticed. Oh wait, that was Mr. Wickham from Pride and Prejudice but you get the idea.

Love in all things,

April Eileen



 

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She Drinks Too: The Mystery of a Modern-Day Speakeasy

Part One: The Hunt

“Go through the back door and into the dark alley. Make a right and head toward the glowing light. You’ll see a door with snake coils on it. That’s the place.”

Um, yeah…because this is From Dusk Till Dawn and I’m George Clooney and he’s Quentin Tarantino and we’re walking into vampire headquarters. Right. My thoughts raced beneath a furrowed brow as my husband and I got directions to Bad Luck Bar – a fairly new and very opulent 1920’s inspired speakeasy in downtown Detroit.

Part One: The Hunt

“Go through the back door and into the dark alley. Make a right and head toward the glowing light. You’ll see a door with snake coils on it. That’s the place.”

Um, yeah…because this is From Dusk Till Dawn and I’m George Clooney and he’s Quentin Tarantino and we’re walking into vampire headquarters. Right. My thoughts raced beneath a furrowed brow as my husband and I got directions to Bad Luck Bar – a fairly new and very opulent 1920’s inspired speakeasy in downtown Detroit.

Let me back up. I heard about Bad Luck Bar from my very cool pottery instructor. No, that is not an oxymoron and no, I am not talking about a 60-year-old, retired hippie that still smokes weed every now and then (medicinal, of course). Really, this dude is a 20-something hipster, bartender, and soon-to-be attorney with impeccable taste that just happens to make a mean coffee mug. He tells me I have to check out Bad Luck Bar and while the cocktails are ridiculously expensive, it is really worth it. He says nothing more.

Bad Luck Bar entrance and curtain reveal by Bad Luck Bar

Bad Luck Bar entrance and curtain reveal by Bad Luck Bar

Intrigued, I decide to venture out, dragging my skeptical husband along for the ride. We arrive at Bad Luck Bar, or rather, where Bad Luck Bar should be but quickly learn 1218 Griswold – the establishment’s purported address - does not exist (at least from a street view). Waze, you disappoint me. We drive, and then walk up and down Griswold several times without so much as a whiff of a spirit. Finally, we go into the coffee shop at 1220 defeated and ready to scrap the whole thing. But before we commence stress eating and drowning our sorrows in warm beverages, I decide to give it one more shot. Timidly, I walk up to the barista and ask, “Have you ever heard of Bad Luck Bar?” to which he answers, “Of course.” “Can you please tell us where it is?” I plead.

Ten minutes later, I found myself in a dark and sumptuous room, looking at the cat-eye framed peepers of our very detached, red-lipped hostess. She pulled back a velvet curtain to reveal an extravagant bar that appeared to be plated in gold and owned by Gatsby himself. It was situated amongst a few tables, dim lights, and baroque-like detail to achieve an intimate setting.

Part Two: Inside the Drinkery

“In the main hall a bar with a real brass rail was set up, and stocked with gins and liquors and with cordials so long forgotten that most of his female guests were too young to know one from another.” F. Scott Fitzgerald, The Great Gatsby

Yep, the gold Gatsby bar was certainly stocked and I was certainly too young to know about much of its merchandise, most notably The Admiral. This $80 shot of rum - served neat, on the rocks, or as a daiquiri depending on the whims of the patron - is from the UK’s rationing to the British Royal Navy in 1952. As I said, I’m clearly too young to appreciate that kind of rarity. For that expense, I wanted the rum to talk and tell me about drunken British sailors, life on a navy ship, and what it’s like to be mixed with Coke. I skipped the rum and opted for The Empress – a lovely little libation made with vodka, pineapple-honey shrub, and honeybush tea soda and served in a pretty flute with lavender-infused pop rocks around the rim! So. Stinking. Cute. My husband ordered Death and honestly, I have no idea what’s in it but the thing arrived at our table on fire. Really…full-on flames. Since then, I’ve also had Past Lives, which was excellent and The Tower, which, because of a chamomile tea bag that is continuously flavoring the cocktail, tastes very different at the last sip then it did at the first. Points for creativity.

Bad Luck Bar and cocktails by Bad Luck Bar

Bad Luck Bar and cocktails by Bad Luck Bar

So what’s the verdict? Bad Luck Bar is serving up an experience, not mere booze. The masterminds behind the scenes have taken time and care to wow their guests and everything is curated to that end – from the speakeasy’s mysterious location, to the way the bar is revealed, to the drinks themselves. Is it worth it? Absolutely. Go and enjoy something from the menu at least once, and if you’re on a tight budget, keep in mind they have a full bar that serves just about anything.

Sound worth it to you? Let me know your thoughts. I’d also love to know if you would spring for the rum. :-)

UPDATE: Not surprisingly, the menu has been refreshed since I originally shared this post and, because I clearly have a thing for pop rocks, I’d recommend trying The Alchemist. It’s a vodka cocktail served with house made black tea-dried fruit soda (that’s boogie for pop rocks) on top. Also, the Admiral is now $120 and that’s all I’m going to say about that.

Love in all things,

April Eileen

 

 

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